Indonesian coffees have long been considered earthy, and frequently flawed. Not anymore thanks to the Toarco Company.
Joyride Coffee Distributors- Toarco Coffee (1 of 4)
This year, for the first time, I've had an Indonesia that I liked enough to purchase it for personal consumption. Our roasters agree. Blue Bottle, Stumptown and Intelligentsia have all released coffees from the Island Sulawesi, sourced by the Toarco Company of Japan. These coffees are sweet and bright in a way that I have never seen in an Indonesian coffee. For a long time these lots were snatched up by the Japanese market. This year, however, they've made their way to America and I'm damn happy they have. These coffees differ from traditional Indonesians in a number of ways, and well take a look at those differences.
The Toarco Company
This company has been operating on the island since 1976 and has a business model very reminiscent of Third-wave roasters. Indonesia's coffee crops are largely grown by small holders, owning on average only 1,200 trees. Because of this dispersion of control, quality is difficult to monitor and education difficult to disseminate. The Toarco company has created a model plantation, where they educate farmers on proper husbandry, picking, and processing of coffee. Farmers are welcome to come and learn how to properly operate their own farms more professionally, leading to fewer flaws in the resultant cup. To reward better practices, the company uses a strict pay-for-performance model, rewarding the most successful farmers with the highest prices. All the coffees purchased by the Toarco company are cupped three times during their evolution from cherry to green bean and are judged based on quality of cup, size of beans and number of defects. They will purchase coffee only from farmers and collectors who agree to adhere to their uniquely strict sourcing, picking and processing requirements.
The Terroir and Varietals
Coffee was first brought to Indonesia via India by the Dutch East India company in the early 1700s. Coffee was, at that time, a new and popular drink among wealth bourgeoisie and royalty, with prices as high as $300/lb (adjusted for inflation). The plants brought to Indonesia were of the Typica varietal and were from East African stock. These early plants are considered a 'noble' varietal, that is to say, they are damn tasty. Over time, most of these trees were replaced by Robusto and and the arabic hybrid Catimor - both of which have higher yields and are less susceptible to leaf rust (such as the rust that is currently ravaging Colombia). Unfortunately, they are also not as tasty. Due to the rural nature of Sulawesi, those changes never took place and thus, you can still find the original Typica, as well as another great varietal, S-795, all throughout the region. To help maintain these varietals, the Toarco company gives away free seedlings grown on its model estate, Pedamaran. In doing so they are ensuring that these lower yielding, but better tasting varietals continue to thrive in the face of the pressures of globalization and access to alternative, hardier trees.
The Processing
Most Indonesia coffees are processed using the wet-hull method: while the beans are still not fully dried, they are bought to market, where they are purchased, damp, by a middle man. Due to the difficulty of transportation and storage in rural and humid Sulawesi, the typical transportation to well established facilities that we see in Africa and Latin America is damn near impossible for these small-holding farmers. The Toarco company has mitigated this difficulty and in doing so allowed for a better, if more expensive processing system, by setting up rural coffee purchasing stations where the farmers can bring their crops. These are then aggregated and dried fully in their parchment before shipping out. The result is that most of the fruit-like brightness and acidity survives the processing in way that it can't survive wet-hull processing. This difference alone has a drastic impact on the cup, yielding notes that I've never had before in Indonesian coffees.
With an understanding of the background, lets take a look at the specific offerings. They come from slightly different lots but they are all syrupy, fruity and absolutely worth buying if you can get your hands on them.
Joyride Coffee Distributors- Toarco Coffee (2 of 4)
Intelligentsia Toarco Jaya Sulawsi Region- Tana Toraja Varietal- S-795 Elevation- 1600-1800masl Processing- Wet Processing Cup- Apple and pear with maple syrup make for a round and rich body balanced by toasted almond and dried cherry in the finish. Retail Price- $20/12oz
Joyride Coffee Distributors- Toarco Coffee (3 of 4)
Stumptown Indonesia Sulawesi Toarco Toraja Region- Toraja, Sulawesi Varietal- S-795, Typica Elevation- 1400-1800masl Processing- Washed Process Cup- Sweet and juicy notes of red currant and plum coat your palate in a cup with the taste and texture of molasses. Retail Price-$16.50/12oz
Blue Bottle Sulawesi Toarco Jaya
Blue Bottle Sulawesi Toarco Jaya Region- Tana Toraja, Sulawesi, Indonesia Varietal- S-795/Jember, Typica Processing- Wet-processed Elevation- 1450-1600masl Cup- Huge, sweet body with much more complexity than your typical Indonesian Retail Price- $13.89/12oz
Having tried all three of these coffees, it is immediately apparent that they aren't from the same lot. Those small differences in elevation and origin have lead to three different, yet good cups. The blue bottle is full-bodied and juicy without leaning toward a muddled cup, while, on the other end of the spectrum, the intelligentsia is surprisingly nuanced for such a chewy cup. The Stumptown falls somewhere in the middle, but maintains an attractive sweetness. These coffees bring to mind some of the sweeter Ethiopians I've had, although their body is significantly fuller. This style of coffee is unlike any I've had before. If this is the direction Indonesian coffees production is moving, then I for one welcome the change.
Preferred Brew Method: These coffees make a killer cup that comes out as even fuller and richer when prepared on the french press.
Cafe Review: The Thinking Cup
This past weekend I had a chance to Visit the Thinking Cup, in Boston's South End.
Here are some photos. The thinking cup sells Stumptown Coffee as well as a large variety of Baked Goods, from Cakes to Biscotti. They have a La Marzocco/Mazer match up. Even better, they'll do a pour-over or a siphon of any of three Single Origins. When I went, they had the Sulawesi Toarco Peaberry, the Ethiopian Nano Challa and a Colombian. I thought my pour-over was quite good, but the espresso left something to be desired.
When I first started regularly visiting Boston, the coffee situation was pretty grim. In the last three years, however, it has gotten much better, to the point where I'm no longer bringing my own beans, grinder and French Press on every trip. The next step seems to be one of the Big three opening a roastery, or a Local company stepping up to the plate and taking a crack at Direct Trade.
-Adam
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How to pick a good bag of coffee (without tasting it first).
I find myself often explaining to my fiancee why different aspects of coffee matter, and how, before I even open the bag, I can tell if a coffee will be good or not. Here's how.
Different-Bags-of-Coffee
Preamble
One fine day my fiancee called me a snob for not wanting to try a new coffee. To her mind, I was being closed minded and arrogant for thinking that I knew everything about the beans. In the end, I caved and tried the coffee. But to prove my point I did a blind, side-by-side comparison of the un-named coffee and a Blue Bottle ABS Finca La Florida SO. I was vindicated, but it got me thinking, how can you figure out if a coffee is good without trying it? The truth is, you can't. But there are definitely some indications that a coffee has the potential to be good. Here are the things to look for:
What to look for in a good bag
1. A respected roaster- The chances are, that if you are buying coffee from a roaster you respect, then you are probably getting a high quality product. The coffee may not be to your taste, exactly (for example, I usually don't care for Indonesian coffees) but it should be relatively free of flaws. This is the single easiest way to ensure you're buying a decent cup.
2. Roast date- Buy fresh coffee. Even more importantly, make sure that the package has the roast date labelled on it. I've had people try to tell me that roast date doesn't matter. When you hear that, turn around and leave, the chances aren't good that you'll get a cup worth remembering.
3. Whole Beans- I understand that not everybody has a grinder at home. Ideally, if this is the case, you should buy the whole bean bag, and then have the cafe, or supermarket or whatever grind it for you. If the packaging says "Ground" you're barking up the wrong tree. Coffee that is manufactured and ground right then and there may offer an okay cup, but it shows a lack of understanding about how truly exceptional coffee needs to be treated.
4. Terroir and Farm- Most coffee snobs have a preference for a region when it comes to coffee, but that isn't what this is about. If you only ever stuck to your wheel-house you would never get to try some of the amazing coffees that exist in the world. Check the packaging, and lacking that, ask the barista about the sourcing for the beans. If the barista doesn't know, and the package doesn't say, you are more likely to get an indifferently sourced coffee. Simply having the country, however is not enough. Because of the way that coffee is traditionally (i.e. not Direct Trade) sourced, country of origin alone will tell you little about the beans. Look for some indication of the farm, region or co-op the beans are from. Even better, look for some marking as to the wash and drying process. Attention to details like this on the part of the roaster are essential for a truly good cup. Even if you are buying a blend, which often won't have as much information about source, a good roaster will give some indications as to where the component coffees come from.
5. Cupping notes- These will at least let you know that the roaster has tried their coffee. If there are notes like "Pipe tobacco" or "tar" you may be looking at a nice way of saying "we roast the crap out of our poor beans or we buy muddy beans in the first place." That isn't always the case; sometimes a coffee is bold and earthy and isn't a bad thing.
What to avoid:
1. 100% Coffee- You would hope it would be. This is a way of saying "we don't know what's in here"
2. Robusto- For the most part, any coffee bragging of being a robusto is assuming ignorance on your part.
3. 100% Arabica- This is much more common. It is true that all the best coffees in the world come from this pant-leg as it were of the bifurcated species of coffee. But not all Arabica are created equally. You should look instead for a mention of varietal. Not all coffees will have it, but if they do, you're more likely to get a better cup. The varietal itself doesn't guarantee quality, but attention to details such as varietal imply a level of attention necessary for good beans.
4. Meaningless labeling- If a coffee is talking about the "joy of a simple cup" or the "fine tradition of Costa Rican coffee growing" they are wasting space where they could have been giving you information on what you're drinking. Often, this is due to a lack of knowledge on the roaster's part. Packaging should be informative, not trying to evoke a feeling. That is what the beans inside are for.
I can't guarantee that if you follow there guidelines you'll love all the coffee you ever buy, but you'll certainly be more likely to. Cheers and good hunting.
-Adam
Coffee Hack: How to Filter with a French Press
Sometimes you have coffee ground for the wrong setting. How do you fix it?
Last night at our family's Thanksgiving Dinner, we came across a problem. My sister has a French press, but we brought coffee ground for drip. How do you deal??? Like this:
The Coffee Hack: Brewing Drip Ground Coffee on a French Press
The filter we used is for a chemex, but any filter would really do. Remeber to pre-wet the filter, though to get any taste out of it prior to pressing. The mechanism used to hold the fine screen in the Bodum french press is perfectly designed to hold a filter in a similar situation.
In terms of brewing with the finner grind, the single biggest difference is that you need to stir more often. Coffee ground for french-press has more carbon dioxide caught in the larger granuals, while coffee ground for drip allows most of the carbon-dioxide to escape. As a result, coarsely ground coffee floats, while more finely ground coffee sinks. To avoid a problem where there is simply sedement sitting at the bottom of the press, over extracting into a small amount of water while under extracting into the rest, you need to stir the coffee every minute during the four minute brew cycle.
One thing worth keeping in mind is that pressing the pot at the end of the brew requires more force and patience than normal. You are pushing the water through a finer filter, that is clogged with finner particulate. Additionally, unless you are preternaturally skilled at trimming filters, you end up with some in-between the the coil and the glass. Just keep patiently pressing. If the going gets stuck, pull up a bit before continuing on the downard trajectory. The cup itself comes out splendidly. It certainly has the finer sediment you expect from a french press, but it doesn't have the larger sediment that the screen allows, and therefore lacks some of the body of a normal french press. If you do it correctly, however, the cup should be amazing and should reflect the beans well. In terms of taste, I would say the cup lies somewhere between french-press and a chemex, leaning more toward the french press.
If you have other coffee hacks, let me know! We'd be happy to share them with the world.
-Adam
Holiday Coffee Done Right in 7 Steps
Ho Ho Ho and a cup of Joe. Now I'm not sure how many people come to Thanksgiving Dinner with your family, but at mine, they are numerous. Everybody from my 93 year old grandfather to my one year old nephew will be there with a good two dozen people in between. Finding a good coffee solution for a big group can be daunting. Here are some tips on how to intelligently integrate your caffeine addiction into the festivities while keeping everybody happy.
1. Drink Coffee the Morning Of: If you are a regular coffee drinker, neglecting your morning cup is going to give you a headache on an already stressful day. I like to use an artisinal brew method such as a pour-over or (if you have a partner) a chemex. The ritual of brewing coffee is calming and helps to collect your thoughts, all while giving you your daily dose of caffeine.
2. Don't drink coffee all day: I know that if I am very busy, I will just keep drinking coffee all day. This is a mistake. Over caffeinating is easy to do when your mind is on other things, like stuffing a turkey. Keep in mind that caffeine has a halflife in the human body of about 8 hrs, so as a rule of thumb, I try to stop drinking coffee by about 8hrs before I plan to go to bed. There is nothing worse than laying in bed, ridiculously full and unable to sleep because you drank twelve cups of coffee while basting your bird.
3. Have decaf available: For me, decaf is a bit of a joke. But everybody has a caffeine sensitive Aunt Gertie who will just get a massive sour-puss if you don't give her the cup she wants. Having a bit of decaf on hand is a great idea. Furthemore, most people who drink decaf, usually aren't connoisseurs so (this is a bit mean) you can hold onto decaf beans a bit longer and they probably won't notice. That one bag can probably last you from Thanksgiving through Christmas, Haunkaha, Kwanza, Festivus or whatever solstice-time festivities you celebrate.
4. Use Coffee in dessert recipes: Coffee has a subtle and amazing flavor that pairs well with citrus, apples, and chocolate to name just a few. Folded into a chocolate cake, it can balance out sweetness, and add layers of flavor to a desert. When mixed into brownies, it can add a layer of flavor, that is sublime when served ala mode.
5. Brewing for the After Dinner rush with French Press: For me, the best way to deal with the after dinner rush is with one (or two!) Frenchpresses. In the cold times of the year a thickly-bodied cup offers a great, comforting appeal. Furthermore, it takes about 4 minutes to make a darn good cup of coffee! They are available in all sizes, so it is possible to do coffee for 20 in 4 minutes using two 12-cup Frenchpresses. Additionally, as a brew method, the French Press is more forgiving than the often finiky pour-over methods, so if you get distracted talking to your slightly tipsy brother-in-law about the Giants, less harm done. With fresh beans, grinding before brewing and decanting after you press, the french-press can make an amazing cup of coffee, while forgiving the almost inevitable distraction.
6. Pairing Bourbon with coffee: Irish coffee is a bit obvious. But bourbon too makes a great accompaniment to a cup of coffee. Buying a single bottle can turn dessert into something the sweet-adverse drool over.
7. Coffee beans make good gifts: Amazing quality coffee beans are an affordable way to give people something special, without burdening them with a Brookstone scalp massager/martini shaker. Nobody likes those. Coffee, on the other hand, is enjoyed and then it's gone, freeing their tiny NYC closets for the terrible gifts other people give them. If you want to give a more significant gift, a nice coffee, paired with say, a Chemex, ilters, a Breville Hot water heater and a Hario kettle, gives people an amazing setup with amazing design to boot.
Have a happy (and well caffeinated) holiday season!
-Adam
Dallis Office Coffee: Fall 2012 Cupping
Dallis brought in a new batch of coffees and we got a chance to cup them at the roastery.
Dallis Bros Coffee
Even since we began working with Dallis a year ago, they have been continually upping their game. They carry a pretty wide variety of single origin and single varietal coffees as well as a number of blends. This tasting consisted of ten single origin coffees with six Latins, three Africans and an Indonesian. Overall the quality was good, and the Sidama Ardi in particular stood out as exceptional. The Honduras La Fortuna had an extremely balanced and floral cup. Picking the coffees for our menu, however, is always a balancing act of keeping an approachable menu (i.e. 20ish coffees), having an attractive price and offering just straight-up good coffee. So to find out what we chose, keep an eye on our coffees page.
This was a proper cupping and we moved from the simplest to the most complex. Here are tasting notes and a few photos.
Brazil Bahia Pe Da Serra Micro-lot: Sweet floral notes drive the taste, while a juicy round sweet body rides out the finish.
Brazil Carmo de Minas: This is our Yellow Bourbon Single Varietal. It is smooth, chocoalte laden and has key lime acidity.
Dominican Republic Aroryo Bonito, Jarabacoa Finca Rufino: Notes of red grapes and blackberries with a great clarity.
Honduras Intibuca Finca Las Cascadas: Sweet notes of peach sparkle with citirc accidty and a nutty-sweet cream body.
Colombia San Augustin, Huila, Rodrigo Romero: Nectarine, red grape and sweet lemon over a savory undertone and a bright acidity.
Sumatra Aceh Fair Trade Organic Certified: Earthy notes and fruity depth.
Ethiopian Sidama Ardi: Juicy mouthfeel of Red Berry, slightly bright and tart with hints of jasmine and orange. The bouquet is redolent of concord grape. It was reminiscent of a Blue Bottle Tanzanian we had a chance to try a while back.
Tanzania Nitin Peaberry: Subtle notes of strawberry and guava accent a chocolate cup with a dynamic body and a lasting finish.
Kenya Kiambu: Jasmine, raspberry notes with grilled pineapple aciidty and a sweet round body.
Honduras La Fortuna Enrique Nunez: Chocolate brownie, red berries with a kumquat-citric acidity and a smooth mouth feel.
Dallis Bros Coffee
Joyride goes to the Queens Tech Meetup
Last night, as part of our sponsorship for Coalition for Queens, we went to Long Island City for the Queens tech meetup. First off I apologize, but the camera ran out of batteries, so I could only snap off a few shots. Now I love Queens: both my parents lived here, I live in Astoria, the food is phenomenal and rent isn't stupidly expensive. So maybe I'm a bit biased, but I found it exciting to see Queens moving into its own and developing in a hub for some really damn cool stuff. With the Cornell Applied Sciences School coming to Roosevelt Island, its hard to see how the tech scene in Queens can do anything BUT expand. But on to the event. The space was great (a huge rooftop right off the Pulowski Bridge) and included a Q&A with a dude from VC, a Skillshare (Joyride Customer) presentation, and a look at an underground advertising campaign by OKFOC.US that tells you if there is a cat in the picture. It was a good time with some beers, and of course our cold-brew (of the available brews, negro-modelo came out as the favorite to mix), even if the weather looked like the end of the world was imminent and lightening kept flashing for the full two hours.
We got to see some familiar faces. Barrel, the team that designed our new website and a Joyride drinker, had a few faces present, while Jessica, a key force behind the 25,000 strong New York tech meetup stopped by. We also got to chat cold-brew with a member of the Meetup team, to see how our cold-brew there stacked up against the stuff we bring to their office. We also met some really cool new people, including the team at Monseuir Igloo, a startup digital agency working out of Forest Hills (again, because Queens is awesome).
Anyhow, here are a few photos.
Queens Tech Meetup (1 of 3)
Queens Tech Meetup (2 of 3)
Queens Tech Meetup (3 of 3)
